Magic Wood Round 3

I arrived in Magic Wood fairly unprepared, I’d been training for a trip to Frankenjura but had to cancel this which sparked the idea of heading back out to Switzerland to try and finish off some nemesis problems. On my first every trip to Magic Wood I had a great time trying loads of problems, if it felt good then I’d spend a bit of time on it, if it didn’t then I’d move on to the next. This along with good form brought a nice ticklist. However, it did mean that most things I didn’t do on that trip I find really hard, leaving me with many nemesis problems! The first thing I tried on my first day was Riverbed; I find this thing really hard. I can’t pin down the issue with it but I find it hard. First day however the conditions were great and I came really close to getting it done… I spent around 3 or 4 sessions on the problem over the trip but conditions were never as good the first night when I wasn’t very familiar with the problem.


Inspired by James Squires efforts on Practice of the Wild during his trip I was excited to find a project to try whilst there and go home to train for it. I spent a session on this which went really well, I was starting to feel good on the main crux and am definitely interested in putting more time into trying this again in the future. The next project I had was Ill Trill a great 8B+/C by Paul Robinson I believe; this thing is cool. A really nice problem with some of the coolest movements I’ve done on any boulder ever. I ended up putting 3 sessions into this and thought there may be a chance of it going during the trip. The successes during the trip however were the 3 8A’s, 2 8A+’s and a new 8B. This including another of the problems I find really hard, Foxy Lady… Strange problem as initially I’d wanted to go for the flash as I thought it would suit me perfectly; shouldery and small holds but positive holds. The flash couldn’t have been further off; I think I’ve probably put 4 or 5 session on this over the past year! Its always nice to tick off these desperate problems however. It was nice to try many of the new problems in the newest Magic Wood guide which has many new additions including Darkiller, a great link between Darkiss and Left Hand of Darkness; unfortunately, I still can’t do LH of Darkness. Maybe next year…


Once I’d done Darkiller I wanted to try a possible link which would suit me after I’ve been training for routes. It was a long line around 30 moves of pure power endurance. It links Darkiller into From Sunshine to Darkness, I really enjoyed this line and was surprised something like this hasn’t been done before as it was so good and obvious I thought. Then one night whilst walking to the boulders, the trip came to a quick end. I jumped off one of the steps whilst walking to Riverbed and badly rolled my ankle; I couldn’t walk out of the woods and had to be carried (thanks to Jack and Josh for helping). This marked the end of the trip, just as I was getting close to 4 problems 8B and above but that’s how it goes sometimes. I’ll have to be back in Magic Wood very soon to finish everything off. All in all it was a brilliant trip, I learnt a lot about trying projects with bad conditions and learnt a lot about the importance of patients when trying projects with bad conditions. It also gave me a chance to learn some more German. Time to start training for the next trip!



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