Since I started university I’d been trying a hard boulder problem at the small Cliff Road Crag which basically eliminated an ugly manmade feature and made a desperate problem which I was certain would take me a few years to get done! I just couldn’t really figure out how it would be possible to even hold the awful slopers, never mind move to and off of them. It just seemed like an unlikely problem!
Over the past couple of months I’ve began getting back into training seriously again and have been noticing some big gains which is always nice. All areas of my climbing feel like they’re improving and I’m getting back to the form I was in back in May which I never ended up taking advantage of due to having some time off. However I’ve been trying this boulder problem quite a lot and it was only possible to have sessions on it in the evening and at night because the slopers were just far to bad to hold. I’d got some of the moves sorted but the move on and off the slopers was really hard and just hanging them was a bit of an issue.
Long story short they’re the worst holds I have ever used and it’s by far the longest I have spent on a move. It felt really really hard!
Tonight I decided to head down there and have a play on a few other things but I thought I’d give the project a go and see how it went. After many goes a figured that the best way to move off the slopers was a really hard campus move as the feet are just so poor that you cant really get anything from them. The next challenge was to actually get onto the sloper… this was really hard, a desperate slap onto a hold which I can barely hold anyway!
I did the move once and then failed badly most of the other times. My skin was suffering badly so I decided to rest and have one last go for the night. Somehow I pulled through the problem, it felt really really hard and is possibly the longest I’ve spent on a boulder. Very very powerful moves on the worst holds I’ve ever tried to pull on. It satisfying to get this problem done however and it’s cool to see the gains from all the training paying off!