Favourite Boulders Part I

‘ve wanted to write a blogpost about some of my favourite routes and problems for a while now since my friend Jack Macloughlin suggested the idea back in 2012 but I’d never really got around to doing it. My plan is to do 4 posts (eventually); one with my favourite 3 boulder problems Font 7C and above, another with my favourite three boulder problems 7B+ and below, one with my 3 favourite route 7c and above and then of course my 3 favourite routes 7b+ and below.

This post is going to be about my favourite boulder problems which are graded above 7C. Its always tough choosing your favourite problems or routes, I can think of at least 10 which I could easily put in this post but I don’t want to bore readers talking about what makes the problem good.

The first problem I would choose is Voigas, a Font 8A+ in Magic Wood I did in the summer. Its on a huge wall and doesnt have a great finish as you match a jug in the middle of the wall and drop off. However the moves leading into that hold are some of the coolest I have done yet. I weird start with a drop knee above your head and then you move to a good crimp and make a huge jump into a jug and then I found the match of the jug tricky, dropping that move several times. The rock is perfect and very pleasent to climb on with nice holds and big moves!

 

Another boulder I love is Coup de Lune, 7C at L’Elephant area in Fontainebleau. Its such a simple boulder with perfect moves and perfect holds and a nice kneebar thrown in there too. It ends with a big dynamic move up high which adds to the fun of the boulder. For me I think it is one of my favourite boulders which I have done in Font and I’d reccommend it to anybody climbing at this sort of grade.

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Prepossanne is one of my own problems which I did in a dark dingey cave called Ash Hole. It was tough choosing this problem as the rock isn’t the best, however its got the greatest holds and the coolest moves I have ever done. Its very powerful and you really have to try hard to get this one done. The journey started with a standing start variation which took my quite a long time to get done and it had which felt like the hardest move I have ever done on it. The thought of starting low to join the move seemed a long way off and when I first tried the boulder I couldnt hold a single hold on the entire problem! I slowely made progress until one day I finally pulled it off from the sit which I think fits in with Font 8B or maybe 8A+. The best part however is that the journey still isn’t over and there is a low start which starts at the back of the roof which means you do a problem around Font 7C straight into an 8A and then finish with another short 8A. It feels very hard to link at the moment but hopefully in the future it’ll come together.

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Prepossanne Stand, 8A

Ill get the second part to this blogpost up as soon as possible! Thanks for reading!

 

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