Magic Wood Trip

I arrived in Magic Wood on July 2nd, my expectations were pretty low as I hadn’t been climbing a great amount and I was feeling fairly weak when climbing indoors. On the first day I did however surprise myself and managed to do a cool 7C after a long day spent travelling. I felt much longer than I was expecting and I knew that if I rested up a little I’d be able to get some harder problems done and if I put some time into something I’d be able to get myself up something which I find hard. I slowly started trying some harder problems and several of the classic 8B’s like Riverbed, Steppenwolf, One Summer in Paradise and a few others and then I found Dark Matter a nice Dai Koyamada roof line around 30 moves long graded at 8B+/C. Fortunately there was a strong climber trying the stand version which gets 8B/+ and misses out the hard first section. Before I started taking the problem more seriously I wanted to try and get a few 8th grade problems done first.

Dark Matter Stand (8B+)

Dark Matter Stand (8B+)

On my birthday I had a particularly good day and I had a good morning where I did Deepthroath first at 8B, then I finished off Voigas an 8A+ which I’d previously fallen on the finishing match 4 times and then managed an unnamed 8A. I then had lunch and we headed into town before heading back out in the evening where I then flashed Diesel Power 8A, did the 8A+ sit start, repeated Right Hand of Darkness 8A and then did then low start to it in a couple of goes which is graded at 8A+.

Dark Matter

Dark Matter

I then did a few more 8A and 8A+’s before I started to put some serious effort into Dark Matter Stand. After around 3 days on the problem I had done all the moves and just needed to start making some big links. Eventually I was on to redpoints and on my first try from the start I got to the last move which on its own is probably 5+ but somehow I dropped it. After this I thought it would go next go or at least within a few more attempts. However it unfortunately didn’t work out that way and I spent another 4 days (and around 8 sessions) trying the problem. The problem finally went on the morning of my last day in Magic Wood just hours before I had to leave to get my flight home.

From Darkness to Sunshine (8A)

From Darkness to Sunshine (8A)

Overall it was a fantastic trip with some great company but I wouldn’t have even been able to go if it wasn’t for the help of the Quay Climbing Centre. I’ve been training at the Quay for a while now and have seen huge gains in my climbing since I started using it as my primary training facility. I also have to thank Mammut and Five Ten too for the awesome kit which makes climbing a little easier!


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