Spontaneity

Since I visited Fontainebleau back in October my climbing has been a bit all over the place, I’m not used to not having a focus but I’ve been doing a bit of everything; training routes, training boulders, sport, bouldering, competitions… So now I’m ready to train routes again ready for my trip to El Chorro in February.
All of the spontaneity hasn’t been dissappointing though as I’ve had a pretty good past month and have performed well (for me) in each of the disciplines which I have done.
Bouldering has been my most frequent discipline and I’ve had the opportunity to get out, tick some problems and also find some new projects for the future. In a short session to Breakwater (a poor eliminate wall) which is near my old house, I repeated several of the 7C’s which had been put up there a while a go and also finished some of my old projects which I had there which were both around 8A, there were quite long and being two 7C’s straight into the other with no rest they left my gasping for air and also showed me that I was really in the need for some fitness training after a couple of months just bouldering. Anyway, I decided to keep bouldering… The following week I did some new problems at Ash Hole in Brixham and also found a new project to get done. I returned there for a couple of days and after 3 sessions I managed to do the stand start to the project, it took me 3 sessions to get one of the moves on the problem which is the longest I’ve ever spent on a single move; I named the problem Prepossanne and gave it Font 8A. The sit start is still to go and will be really hard for me but definitely possible.
Prepossanne Stand, 8A

Prepossanne Stand, 8A

I then headed to Dartmoor for a session and came away having done Tsunami, Tsunami Extension, The Wave Footless and The Wave Traverse which was pretty brutal, tough on the skin and the shoulders! After hearing the James Squire had done a new 8A+ at Bonehill I was keen to check this out and therefore I returned the following week and managed a repeat in just under an hour.
Competitions have been pretty fun too; I attended the Bristol Bouldering Championships at Bloc Climbing Centre where I finished 3rd to strong climbers Matt Cousins and Jon Partridge. The following weekend I was back in Bristol for the TCA flash comp where I grabbed 1st place in both the main comp and also the Head to Head finals.
Finally I’ve managed to get to Ansteys 4 times this week, I hadn’t been there for around 3 months before that! The first session there I got back on an old project which is a huge Extension to the classic Tuppence but couldn’t quite finish it that day, falling off of the last tricky move twice. I went back the next day but it was pretty damp so I jumped on a project and figured out a new way for the crux which is always a good session. Next I managed to do the Tuppence Extension which is around 8b+ and definitely worth doing, really cool climbing following the top of the wall. The latest session was then spent doing a cool Brian/Helium style link up across the Mitre Wall, I named it Imperial and it felt around 8a. The crux breaks down to a round a 7a route into a V6 boulder and then an okay rest and then a V7(-ish) boulder to an easy outro to the chains. Again it was a really cool route and it’s worth doing for sure!
Peter Dawson working my Chimera, 8b+

Peter Dawson working my Chimera, 8b+

That leads me to now where I’m just starting a weeks rest; I haven’t had more than 4 days off for over 2 years now so I’m prepared to be pretty bored…
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