Since Spain I realised that if I want to keep pushing my limits then I need to get stronger… So I’ve mainly been bouldering a lot and doing a lot of strength based training indoors. I wanted to test myself on some hard outdoor boulders. In 2012 my primary focus was bouldering outdoors and I managed to do 6 V11’s, last year I didn’t boulder much at all but did a couple of V10’s… This year in Spain I managed a few V12’s but I wanted to be able to climb V11 in the UK pretty quickly.
So Charlotte and I decided to take a trip to Hartland Quay where I knew there were quite a few V11’s to try and there are also multiple V8’s (which was Charlottes goal for the trip). On the first day we had a quick warm up at Hartland Roof where I onsighted a V7 and a V8/+ and Charlotte made fast work of the V7 there too. Next up was The End is Nigh which I tried quickly a few weeks ago but was feeling pretty tired that day and didn’t manage to do it. This time I had a quick go at trying all the moves again, had my first go where I was too scared to commit to one of the jump moves (the landing is terrible) so gave up… Next go and it was done! I was pleased that I managed to so it quickly however I didn’t manage it in a session so I moves a meter left to another (and harder) V11 which I hadn’t even pulled onto before. I quickly set to work and figures out a good sequence for the top section, pieced that together and now all I had to do was to figure the bottom section which revolves around a three finger jam! I had a couple of goes at pulling on the jam and took some awkward falls as I popped out of it. After a few goes at trying to figure out the best position for the jam I was ready to give it a proper go. I pulled on and felt pretty steady all the way through, I got to the last few moves feeling completely powered out but managed to pull through to the finish!
The weather was awful the following day so we didn’t manage to get out however the weather brightened up the next day and we managed to get out again. I was keen to check out Ache Ball which is a classic Culm Coast Font 7C+ and it’s low start called Aching Balls which gets Font 8A. I quickly got started on trying Ache Ball, figured out some good beta and dispatched it third go. Then I moved on to trying the low start and found a cool sequence which a knee bar and then managed to do Aching Balls second try from the start.
Charlotte was then keen to get on a V8 there called Egg Nishna which is very crimpy and suits her pretty well. I got on it and managed it first try. Charlotte had a few goes and after a little change of beta sent it and grabbed her first V8! Next up was Ache Ball which is also V8, I did it and then Charlotte managed to get the flash and got her first V8 flash. She then made fast work of Me Julie which is also V8 and then tried the classic V8 called Clinical Edge which after a bit of frustration managed to do! I then did a V8+ traverse called Clinical Traverse second go.
Overall it was a pretty successful weekend for both of us and both got done what we had hoped to try. Hartland is a really cool crag and I’d definitely recommend it to anyone, the best problems are between Font 7B and Font 8A but there are plenty of other problems to go at too.