Anstey’s Sessions!

The past week and a half has been an amazing time for climbing for me; after spending a lot of time indoors over the winter preparing for Rodellar, I finally found some time to spend some more time outdoors in the sun.

I started with an ascent of Luke Dawson’s hard boulder on the beach called When the Days are Dead and is given 7C+ although I found it pretty hard at that grade but managed to get it done in a session on my 3rd go from the start. The following day I returned to Anstey’s but this time it was for the routes. I decided to get on Patpence which is given 8a+, after falling off the same move high up 3 times I was told some different beta and I did it next go. The following day was again supposed to be a rest day but I wanted to return to try and do Patpence Ha’penny 8b and I managed to do this first go! I was really pleased to get this done and then I decided to try and do Tuppence 8b but fell twice from the last move twice. Not content with leaving without Tuppence I decided to head back after college on the Monday and then I managed to do it second go on that day; so 4th overall redpoint!

I next returned on Wednesday to find awful conditions and managed one proper redpoint on Tuppence Ha’penny before realising that it just wasn’t going to happen that day. I next headed back yesterday to find bad conditions on Ha’penny again so I decided to open my account with A Fishermans Tale which is considered hard 8b. Without any expectations I quickly figured the moves, had a long rest and then sent it first redpoint. This was really satisfying to this route so quickly and it turned out to be a brilliant route with some really cool moves! Next day and of course I was keen to return again so I decided to get on Tuppence Ha’penny 8b+ which felt fairly good compared to the past couple of days… I warmed up and got on it. I pulled through the crux and then just caught the last hard move of Tuppence. All I had to do now was rest, recover and then do the final 7c section to finish off the route! I had a long rest on the jug and then went for it, I climbed the top section felling very nervous but pulled through to finish off my first 8b+! I was really pleased to get that done; especially on my second redpoint attempt! I was very happy but felt like I had enough energy left to try something else so I had a look at the moves on Pet Cemetery 8a+ and then managed to do it on my first redpoint attempt!

It’s a brilliant week and a half at Anstey’s and I’m now left with only 2 routes left on Ferocity Wall (possibly the wall with the highest concentration of hard routes in the south) and they’re 8b+ and 8c+! I can’t wait to get stuck into whatever is next but I will be back to training for now.

The starting dyno on Tuppence (8b). Photo by Phil Waterhouse

The starting dyno on Tuppence (8b). Photo by Phil Waterhouse

The recent Ticklist:

  • Tuppence Ha’penny 8b+- Second redpoint
  • A Fisherman’s Tale 8b- First redpoint
  • Tuppence 8b- 4th redpoint
  • Patpence Ha’penny 8b- 1st redpoint
  • Pet Cemetery 8a+- 1st redpoint
  • Patpence 8a+- 3rd redpoint
  • When the Day’s are Dead Font 7C+- 3rd redpoint

I also managed Cyberdog 8b and Postman Pat 8a+ within the last month too so it’s nice to see some progression and brilliant to see the training paying off.


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