Cyberdog and more

Setting up or the final move on Triple Trouble- Photo by Charlotte Warner

Setting up or the final move on Triple Trouble- Photo by Charlotte Warner

Cyberdog is an amazing route at Anstey’s Cove with hard boulder moves all the way along. It’s basically 3 hard boulders put together. The first problem revolves around a hard dyno from a good crimp and a pretty poor sloper on two bad feet. I do a big throw to a sloper before coming into a couple of good jugs where the first problem ends. I’ve heard that this first section is around Font 7A+/B. Then you move into the best section of the route which is all about the double gastons on the tiny holds and then releasing the gastons to hit a good pocket. This felt around Font 7A/+. Then the final section has some big stretched out moves which are really powerful and then a really cool dyno to finish. This is maybe a Font 7A+ to the top from there. I’ve heard that people either find this top section really easy or really hard. Personally I found it really easy to do off the rope but as soon as I added some hard moves before it I just found it desperate!

After doing Postman Pat (8a+) I knew the obvious next step would be to do Cyberdog (8b) which is a (much) harder start to Postman. The only issue was that I couldn’t even get close to the first boulder when I had tried it before. I returned a couple of weeks ago to make a start on projecting the route and made my aim for the day to be able to stick the first dyno and get the first boulder dialled. After around 30 attempts at the dyno I did it. I tried again and did it. Third time and I did it! I had found the way to do it and it felt easy, it was all about the way I used the footholds!

I had a short rest and tried the dyno from the ground to see if it was possible and I did it. Unfortunately the draws weren’t in the rest of the route so I couldn’t continue on up. I went up and put the draws in, rested for a while and had my first proper redpoint attempt on the route. I knew from the start that I was feeling a little tired as I’d had so many attempts at the dyno earlier in the day. Anyway; I moves on through the first section, then the second, and then stuck a hard low percentage power move to an undercut, made the next move and then tried to bump into the two finger pocket but missed it and dropped it. I felt very tired and decided to call it a day for now.

I returned just over a week later with Charlotte; I put the draws in and had a long rest. I then did it first go (minus a quick warm up going through the first section), I was so pleased to get it done so quickly especially after the epic I had on Postman Pat when I was trying it last year. This was my first 8b at Anstey’s and my 5th 8b so far. I’m not looking forward to whatever is next!

Creatures of Habit Extension- Photo by Charlotte Warner

Creatures of Habit Extension- Photo by Charlotte Warner

Charlotte Warner trying Paciencia- Photo by Ellis Butler-Barker

Charlotte Warner trying Paciencia- Photo by Ellis Butler-Barker

I have almost finished off my boulder project which felt to be around Font 8a; it always felt desperate but managed to go back and get it done 2nd go in my 3rd session of the year on it. It could have gone much quicker but I wanted it take a while longer as it is a local project which I could use for training after college in the week. It is very eliminate but is actually really enjoyable to climb and flows nicely.

Trying the sit start to Indecisive Youth- Photo by Charlotte Warner

Trying the sit start to Indecisive Youth- Photo by Charlotte Warner

Now it’s back to the training and trying the next project. Thanks for reading!

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